LOCATION: Yucay and tIhe Sacred Valley
What a day. In absolute survival mode. @Mac has bounced back and is upright although not eating this morning. I am definitely not eating and am on constant toilet alert. Not my finest day - but stumbling from one toilet block to the next, begging and borrowing the coins needed for entry. I was just a tag along today trying to stay awake and in the moment. @Deb and @Lloyd are doing much better - just some tingling in the fingers and lips - and of course every step is an effort for each of us.
Had the benefit of @Tanya as our guide for the day and @Marco as the driver. Exceptional. Set a leisurely pace as they guided us through the highlights of the itinerary. Never a rush - always take your time and breath.
We had a fascinating collection of visits today- interspersed with jaw dropping drives along country, dirt roads that switched back and forth up and down the sides of the mountains. Lush green and vibrant with so many crops- steep mountains giving way to valleys with towns nestled beside raging rivers - what a ride.
@Tanya's commentary took us back and forwards between the history and ingenuity of the Incas of the 1400s to the political corruption of Peruvian presidents in recent history. Next Monday's elections filled many of the conversations pieces of the drive and as a hard working, free lance business women her hope is for a capitalist victory. We should have been focussed on the Incas, but the dialogue around the devastating impact of covid on the economy and on the lives of the people was a compelling side story because it was a shared experience.
Of course, when there is a gap in conversation, there's always potatoes, quinoa and corn - who knew there were so many varieties!
The tour today included many stops within the Sacred Valley.
Stop 1 was Chinchero, a charming village nestled at 3 760 metres steeped in ancient weaving traditions and the location of Inca Ruins and a 17th century colonial church.
You know the deal - you watch a demonstration of some weaving- look at the goods on offer - and buy something. This was alpaca textiles. And as demos go - I'd definitely rate it. The creation of the dyes and the production of the vibrant colours had us intrigued. I may have scored a pressie here!
Strolled the narrow alleyways lined with endless stalls selling the same trinkets to get our first glimpse of what was to be the theme of the day. This was a 15th century archaeological site, blending Andean and Spanish influences, including a colonial church (currently being restored but still an active church for the community.) We could see stretched out before us the evidence of extensive terraces created for agriculture and intricate stone walls. On top of these ruins, the Spanish conquistadors had swept in, complete with their diseases, guns and religion and built their churches and decimated the Incas and their way of life. @Tanya's retells weren't bitter - rather an acknowledgement of the conqueror and the conquered and how that has helped to shape the people and culture of today.
Took more kilometres of dirt road to turn into Moray, a unique archaeological site featuring expansive concentric terraces that served as an ancient agricultural laboratory for the Inca civilisation. The design allows for extreme temperature variations, with the bottom being warmer, effectively acting as an agricultural research station to determine the best growing conditions for crops like (surprise) corn, quinoa, and potatoes. The varying microclimates created by the terraces were used for experimenting with and cultivating different crops at different altitudes.
Admitting that collectively we were relieved that @Tanya didn't offer to walk us down into the depths of the lab through the 20 levels and experience the estimated 15 degree variation in temperature - we were more than happy to stroll across the top and get the bird's eye view.
The last site visted was the Ollantaytambo Ruins: A massive Inca fortress and town offering walk through access to detailed stone architecture cascading down a hillside. The hillside bit was the key - meant painstaking step by step ascent into the ruins. It did give @Tanya the opportunity to describe the warfaring nature of the Incas and explain the significance of the layout of the city and its fortifications. Although we wanted to be "participative" and climb the terraces, our flagging energy had us looking forward to short cuts and just looking at and nodding at the heights. There were dozens of walkers and groups making the climb - but our enthusiasm had deserted us.
Rounded out the afternoon with a lunch at the AMA restaurant. My enthusiasm for food was non existent and carried too many risks. A shame really. This restaurant and alpaca boutique strives to empower the Sacred Valley's marginalised communities, by providing job opportunities and first-hand training in hospitality. Local single mothers work in the kitchen and cook the homemade meals using traditional techniques and locally sourced ingredients - @Deb had the biggest white corn kernels I've ever seen!
And that really is all I can remember because once we got back to Sonesta at 3 pm I was bed ridden and other than answering the call of nature I have no idea of the events of the world.
Apparently there was a meet-up for dinner in the hotel restaurant and somehow my lifesaving gatorade materialised on the bedside table. I do have a recollection of re-packing the suitcase and preparing the overnight bag for our one night stay in Machu Picchu. Altitude sucks
Can you believe this?
Amazing facts about incas in the Sacred Valley from Co-Pilot
The "Last Living Inca City": Ollantaytambo is considered a "living" city because inhabitants still reside in homes built by the Incas, utilizing the original water canals and stone-paved streets from 500 years ago.
Cosmic Geography: The Incas believed the Urubamba River was the terrestrial reflection of the Milky Way, guiding their placement of temples and cities.
Master Builders: Sites like Pisac and Ollantaytambo utilize ashlar masonry (or Saksaq Waman), where precisely cut stones fit together without mortar, designed to withstand earthquakes.
Natural Defense: The Incas built terraces for both agriculture and protection, with high fortified points providing defensive advantages against the Spanish.
Ideal Climate: Unlike the higher Cusco city, the Sacred Valley is lower in altitude and has a warmer, milder climate, making it the agricultural center of the empire.
Survival Barometer
Steps 13 805
Weather clear skies 16 - colder in some valleys
Health what can I say - 3 out of 4 on deck and EATING - i have a way to go - living on water and gatorade
For Jesse - high in the mountains - spectacular drops into valleys - the card is hanging in there
"Hope you feel better soon, Nanny."
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