39: Closing the circle - last port of call - Santiago in Chile

  

So much enthusiasm for the next leg of the journey - not even in the air yet - it's a gift!

    LOCATION:  Santiago

Really, this is us homeward bound. Starteded the adventure in Santiago 39 days ago with wads of paper, loads of uncertainty and heaps of enthusiasm. Closing the journey out now with a few relaxing days here to catch our breath and reflect on the adventures we have experienced. 

Another pack and go morning with preparations made a little shorter because breakfast is not on the to do list. Grateful that the hotel staff carry our luggage down the two flights of stairs and on time in the lobby for @Perina to materialise to escort us to the airport.

It was a 20 minute drive at 7 am through the relatively deserted streets of Cusco to the extremely small airport. An unusual setup here and to be honest @ Perina handled everything. We were just a tagalog. The only job we had was to sign a form that was attached to our bags that indicated they were damaged. First time we had experienced this - there was a gloved staff member who ran his hands over every surface and listed the pre existing damage to the luggage which was then compiled on a form for you to sign.

No big line up for security here. Each gate has a dedicated security line. We were ushered into a short queue, bid farewell to @Perina and Peru and guzzled gatorade in preparation for our last priority boarding.

My form continued. Barely on board, I was asleep and totally missed the dramatic takeoff and fly over of the Andes on departure from the lofty heights of Cusco.

A short 2 hours 40 minutes delivered us to our re entry to Chile and we were prepared for all questions, including the length of stay and exact address of our stay - we had rehearsed. Had a little flurry of activity as we tried to complete our SAG customs declaration at the last minute. Not that anyone asked for them and @Lloyd somehow avoided the dog sniff test to gain access with a secret stash of opened Pringles.

Met right at the gate by @Lisette after waiting nearly 20 minutes for the luggage carousel to fire up and know that we did get an energetic, upbeat commentary on our 30 minute run in to Lastarria, our third accommodation stop in Santiago. This is closer to downtown and is an artsy, food and entertainment hub ensuring we have plenty of NON eating decisions to make over the next few days.

Have to say we feel very welcome here. @Lisette and the reception staff very upbeat and enthusiastic- our energy levels weren't quite on the same scale. Happy that we could check in straight away and very pleased with size and comfort of our new home.

We unpacked - sorted the clothing options for the next few days and regrouped to take a few steps outside. What a riot. Wall to wall markets and restaurants alive with people on a Friday evening. A rotating schedule of buskers on the corner -  drums, guitars, musicians. Didn't venture too far, in fact, opted to retreat back into the hotel and join the crowd in the bar for dinner and drinks with a backdrop of a guitarist/singer.  We are eternally optimistic that we can eat and not run. Definitely, feeling better here at just 700 metres above sea level. But like any sufferer of tummy issues, we can identify all exits, the fastest route to the lift and have a plan of attack for reaching the banos. 

Short and sweet today -  we have covered the 2 900 kms from Cusco to Santiago -  only got another 11 822 to go to get us home to Brisbane. 

PS Bad night followed our brave food attempts. Had to call in creative bin solutions to deal with multiple choice exit options. If it weren't so funny, it could be sad. 

Can you believe this?

🌆 Weird & Quirky Facts About Santiago from Co-Pilot

- Earthquake-Proof City: Santiago has been rebuilt multiple times due to earthquakes, which explains why its architecture is a patchwork of colonial, modern, and experimental styles.  

- Black Market for Shoes: In the 1980s, during Pinochet’s dictatorship, Santiago became infamous for underground shoe trading—locals would swap footwear in hidden markets.  

- Street Dogs with VIP Status: Santiago’s stray dogs are so beloved that some even wear reflective vests and “guard” pedestrians at crosswalks.  

- Smog Blanket: Santiago’s bowl-like geography traps pollution, creating a surreal “smog ceiling” that locals joke is their unofficial weather forecast.  

Survival Barometer

Steps 7 141

Weather - 6 in Cusco 19 (a little cooler than we thought) in Santiago

Health - hanging in there - optimistic tummies will improve

For Jesse: lots of entertainers right outside our hotel - these were "dancing drummers" - wild music and absolutely crazy spinning circles! Man and woman in blue are the drummers - have them on their backs

38: Firing on all cylinders and ready for the belly button of the world in Cusco

Find the puma claw

Location: Cusco

That little sleep-in, with the backdrop of rain, was just the start to the day we needed. And the rain meant we could layer up in some wet weather gear and disguise that we are running short of clean clothing.

Plenty of brekkie choices - but we are careful

Don't move - wait 

First job after brekkie was to cash up and @Mac had identified the closest ScotiaBank. Dressed in wet weather gear we took to the streets armed with Maps. This has been the first fail of the ALo eSim - the network kept dropping out. @Mac left me on a "don't move from here corner" and raced back to the motel to get some screen shots of the route. Not that it helped much because we managed to miss it on a couple of passes. The old street fronts don't give away much detail of what is behind the doorway. The small openings give way to the internals of huge Spanish haciendas that might house 10 to 15 shops around a courtyard. Persistence pays, we eventually found the ATM and couldn't believe we had missed it. The traffic, the rain, the narrow paths, alleyways and lack of signage all add to the challenge. Again, with this jumble and proliferation of shops and shop fronts, we continue to wonder how anyone makes a living.

We  contributed to someone's day and bought the two cheapest bottles of gatorade on this trip - only 4 sols a bottle - and they were cold! Almost need a new line on the expenses spreadsheet for gatorade - we have consumed so much.

Plenty of time with our late start - still no guinea pig

The inventory of our gear was the second item on the list of essential tasks this morning - two flight days and three days in Chile will see us through. Picked through the dirty clothes and took a 2 kg bundle to one of the dozen laundries in our block and settled on a 5 pm pickup time.

The Adventure

Met up with @Socrates (yes, that was really his name) for our 5 hour walking (and driving tour) of Cusco. An easy pace, once again, in varying degrees of heavy and light rain, @Socrates continued unravelling the secrets of the Incas. He had the best book as his prop and we asked him to get us one in English. Lots of reading ahead.

Once the capital of the Inca Empire, Cusco has been a pleasant surprise. So chaotic, jumbled , overcrowded and run down on the surface, but with @Socrates help, these superficial layers were peeled away to showcase a city packed with stunning ruins, cobblestone streets, and colonial architecture that tell the story of centuries of change . The Inca and the Spanish continued their living interwoven tale here.

 We've been carrying a wad of tickets for a week and got to use them today- a little soggy in the rain! I have donned the wet weather pants over a pair of long johns and tucked them into my socks - I was ready for anything. Even the spitting alpacas. My glued shoes have done the trick and after today I really don't need them. Could revert to the walking sandals for Santiago. 

Where did we visit?

Koricancha Temple, an ancient Inca palace and a sacred centre dedicated to the Sun God. @Socrates brought every corner of the temple to life, showcasing the striking blend of Inca stonework and Spanish colonial architecture. The Spaniards built the Church of Santo Domingo right on top of the original sacred site. The precision of the Inca walls is impressive, with massive stones fitted so tightly together, precisely aligned and slightly leaning. Of course, revisted the sun god and the spiritual, cosmic and agricultural connections of Inca life and walked the square where the "belly button" of the Inca Empire was marked.

The belly button is where the group is tanding behind @Mac's shoulder

The book does provide the details

Santo Domingo built on top of the palace

San Pedro Market, the oldest market in the city - just an overload for the senses and not even a busy day. Tasted some fruit and bread and were warned our stomachs would not tolerate the offerings from the local vendors. 

The best stomach in the group

Sold everything - much of the food off limits for us

Sacsayhuaman Fortress is one of Cusco’s most impressive Inca sites, famous for its massive stone walls built with extraordinary precision. The sheer size of the stones—some weighing over 100 tons—shows off the incredible engineering skills of the Inca. @Socrates got us counting the corners of the stones, finding paws of the cougar, posing with the heaviest and the tallest and unravelled the mysteries of the zig zag terraces that reflected the lightning bolt. Tried to brave a couple of photos with the wildlife but very anxious about their spitting temperament.

It was wet!

The Basilica Cathedral of Cusco, located in the Plaza de Armas, and wow, this was really something. It is the city’s most iconic religious monument (built from 1559 to 1654 on the foundations of an Inca palace using stones from Sacsayhuaman) and its gold leaf and ornate carvings in both wood and stone make you wonder how these buildings were created. 

The churches were filled with statues and processional floats that are carried through the streets. There was even a Patron Saint for tourist guides.

The three adjoining churches are part of the daily life and ritual of the Cusco people and there were services and celebrations in all sorts of nooks and crannies. It was bustling with tourists, but the daily rituals continued.  

The Cathedral is dedicated to Mary and @Socrates shared the legend of her saving the Spanish people in Cusco and she is often presented as a compassionate mother figure, resonating with Andean concepts of Pachamama (Mother Earth). In this church, she is depicted wearing symbols of Andean Culture. And parallel to that idea of blending Catholicism with local trading, we saw famous Last Supper painting by Marcos Zapata, depicting Christ dining on guinea pig and drinking chicha.

Last Supper - Andean influence

We saw a congregation worshipping the “Black Christ” (Señor de los Temblores) in the Cathedral and it is one of the most revered religious images in Peru and the Patron Saint of Cusco. It has darkened over time from the candle smoke of the church and it is believed that parading that statue, especially on Easter Monday, keeps natural disasters such as earthquakes, at bay.

Blackened by smoke from candles

Finished our tour with a casual stroll around the Plaza and said farewell to @Socrates.

Time for us to dash back to the laundry only to be confronted by the news that our booking was for the "normal rate' and wouldn't be ready till noon! Oops. Explained that we were leaving at 6 in the morning - he calculated the lobby at the express rate and told us to come back at 7.30. Showed him the cash we had .. we were a sols short - no worries - all taken care of for the equivalent of $15 AUD. Phew.

Enjoyed dinner and the game

Found ourselves nestled up in a local sports bar for dinner with about 100 local football fans during a match. What a hoot. Joined in the screaming, clapping, groaning, oohing and cheering for the local red team who clawed their way back in the 87th minute to level the score for the eventual 1 all draw. Perfect backdrop for our pizza and chicken noodle soup!

Washing safely in hand and bags packed we are ready for tomorrow's getaway. 

Can you believe this?

Amazing facts about Cusco from Co-Pilot 

🌄 The City Shaped Like a Puma

The Incas didn’t just build a city—they designed Cusco in the symbolic shape of a puma, their sacred earthly animal.  

- The head sits at Sacsayhuamán.  

- The heart lies in the ancient Kiswar Kancha area.  

- The tail aligns with the confluence of two rivers south of the city.  

🪨 Stones So Perfect They Look Fake - At Sacsayhuamán, the stones fit together so precisely that you can’t slide a piece of paper between them. Some weigh over 100 tons, yet they’re fitted like 3D puzzle pieces with no mortar.  

🐭 The “Chinchilla Last Supper”

Inside Cusco’s Cathedral, there’s a famous painting of the Last Supper— but instead of bread and wine, Jesus and the apostles are eating cuy (guinea pig), a traditional Andean dish.  

🧊 One of the Highest Cities on Earth - Cusco sits at 11,152 ft (3,399 m)—high enough that boiling water takes longer, your heartbeat speeds up, and even walking stairs feels like a workout.  

🧭 “The Belly Button of the World”

Cusco’s original name, Qosqo, means “navel of the world.”  

But it wasn’t just poetic—the Incas believed it was the cosmic center where the earthly and sacred worlds connected.    

🥔 A Potato Paradise

Just outside Cusco lies Parque de la Papa, a conservation park celebrating over 1,000 varieties of potatoes—a reminder that the Andes are the birthplace of the potato.  

🧱 The Twelve‑Angled Stone

This iconic stone in the old city wall has twelve perfectly carved angles, fitting seamlessly into the surrounding stones.  It’s a masterpiece of Inca engineering that still baffles modern architects.  

🌞 A Temple Once Covered in Gold

Qoricancha, the Temple of the Sun, was once lined with sheets of pure gold to reflect the sun god’s power.  The Spanish stripped it, but the flawless Inca stonework remains.  

Survival Barometer

Steps 15 201

Weather 14 degrees and wet

Health we have strategies to manage @Lloyd down

For Jesse: too wet today to risk the card - trying to make sure it makes the entire journey

"I can't find a llama."

37: Rinse and repeat for Machu Picchu and Cusco

 

Dwarfed by Machu Picchu   

 LOCATION:  Machu Picchu to Cusco

Another day investigating the Incas - walking the footsteps of their civilisation and in awe of all that they achieved. The weather was our friend again and after we settled back in Aguas Calientes  for lunch the absolute downpour that can typify a visit for others occurred with a fury. Shaking our heads at how kindly we have been treated!

Admitting that the group is feeling a little 'pass the parcel' weary - to cover this much territory in our projected 44 day adventure has meant that we have constantly been on the hop. Been ferried by bus, plane, car, boat and van down, up across, over and down again on this giant continent. It is not just the travel time that accumulates - it's all the prep and arrival and wait time that adds up.

Today was a typical example. Fun, exploration and adventure in the morning - tacked onto an afternoon and evening  of "hauling ar$e" to a new destination and a late night checkin. It all looks simple on the map - finish the day with a 62 km drive from the train station to the next hotel - but that little number of kms on a mountain drive, at night, through switch backs, on barely wide enough roads, following a line of peak hour traffic all heading from the train station to Cusco, takes over two and a half hours.

Actually took two and a half hours and no, our driver didn't take the "fastest" - local knowledge I guess

It's no wonder that sitting huddled in our little debriefing circle of four, in our shared lounge area of our "boutique hotel," over a barely warm room service dinner, the sparkle, shine, drama and excitement of the morning's exploration seems a distant memory.

Nothing that a beer, a hot shower, a rinse of some undies and a good night's sleep won't fix.  We'll rebound on the morrow - and secretly rejoicing we have a 1.00 PM (note that says PM ... yes, PM) start and an overnighter here!

The Adventure

Think this might be the first time in five weeks that we have separated into two little groups for our morning activity. We were headed up the trail again for a walk of Circuit 3 but @Deb and @Lloyd wanted to "do it with the locals" this morning.

Went solo to mix it with the locals 

Their adventures took them through the side streets, alleyways and markets of Aguas Calientes, up to the sporting grounds, over the bridges and along the river and into the life of the locals. They found real coffee AND pancakes and had plenty of people watching stories. Also dabbled a little into the 95% silver market. 

@Roger picked us up at 10 am at the hotel and it was straight on the bus, no long lines this morning. A bit disappointed we jagged driver 30, he was a speed demon and had us approaching the switchbacks in the mid 30 kmp range (other drivers mid to high 20s)! Being in the very back seat didn't help much either, it was a bumpy, hair raising ride. Did arrive 30 minutes early to the Citadel and grateful that @Roger could use his charm to get us in that much earlier.

Those threads of white constitute the road

Totally different walk and talk today on Circuit 3 and confessing, perhaps one of my favourite days of our adventures so far. You'd think, same view, same story, just different rocks to wander by. Not the case.

Thinking I'd rate today as my fav of the trip - was so much to love!

Exploring Curcuit 3 - not quite as high to start

This circuit is a little lower in the citadel - yesterday we were climbing for those sweeping iconic, panoramic views - but today we were in a position to see the detail of the life and working of the Citadel. When "discovered" it was a mass of tumbled stone, reclaimed by the jungle and today the estimate is that we are seeing about 40% of the city - the rest remains hidden and untouched.  

Bottom left, the round wall and windows of the Temple of the Sun. Pick @Mac posing in the King size bed!

You start by weaving past the Temple of the Sun, with its curved stone walls then dip towards the Royal Tomb, enter the House of the Inca  (ha, and @Roger's joke of fhe King size bed), through the warehouses, school, craft and artisan halls and along the terraces. All reached by uneven stairs and an endless circuit of ups and downs. The most ardous, the 63 steps up to the terraces to take us back on the winding pathway to the spiritual altars and eventually for last views on the exit trail.

Always stairs!

We were in smaller spaces like the Temple of the Condor, where the rock formations resemble wings, and then in the largest spaces of the  Industrial Zone, with its mortar stones and workshops that reminded you this was a living, working city. 

The agricultural terraces fall all the way to the river 

 Sweeping terraces for agriculture, conduits that carry water, a rounded temple that mapped the movement of the sun, the signatures of the stonemasons, the alignment of the walls, the largest rocks, the smallest pieces, the reflections and angles, caves and tunnels - what a civilisation with stories of astronomy, ceremony, constitutions, philosophy and everyday life.

The Temple of the Condor - easy to spot the wings - the head, with the detail of the eye and the beaks on the ground

There were some stories that resonated strongly in the morning and will be front and centre for follow up:

- The Sacred trilogy of the condor, the puma and the snake and the connection of sky, earth and underworld plus the three guiding moral principles of do not steal, do not lie and do not be lazy

- the rise and fall of the empire from Siberian roots to Spanish conquest and the bloodlines of today's Peruvians ... still smiling at @Roger's aside "The only good thing the Spanish brought to Peru was cilantro."

- the mastery of astronomy and its impact on the agricultural planning for daily life - the alignment and reflection of the sun across the citadel, marked by peaks in the mountain, was straight out of an Indiana Jones movie.

Also, this was so special because of @Roger's endless commentary and insights. Can't wait to follow-up on the reading and viewing he has recommended.  

For @Julie and @Von - close to repros8ngg your visits

Back on the bus for that last trip down the mountain and to the meetup with @DeLoy for lunch at a Peruvian Influenced Mexican Restuarant (go figure) and shared stories and photo recaps with a background of torrential rain.

On the dot of 3.30 , our "assistant" arrived to walk us to the station, collect our luggage and pour us into the train. Had the "dud" side of the train for the ride "home" but still entertained by the cultural offerings of Machu Picchu Rail (different food, different performances) and did have the benefit of the specatacualr ice covered mountain views as the train clawed its way back up hill to Ollantaytambo. 

Snow peaks approaching station

Another smooth pass the parcel hand over by Adventure World. @Vivienne was at the station to meet us and whisk us to the toilets before the rush of all the disembarking passengers and then into the van to our non English speaking driver. Amazing really, that you willingly bundle yourself into a van with a stranger and entrust them to navigate the twists and turns of the mountain roads. But there were dozens of vehicles on the same haul as we were and we snaked our way along the 60+ km journey through townships we had passed days before on our tour of the Sacred Valley, as we made our climb to the Incan capital of Cusco which apparently translates to "belly button of the world." 

Night dives

Not sure about that, but in the darkness of our after 8 arrival, it was more a cess pool of the world. The road infrastructure here not geared to mass tourism with buses, cars, vans, rickshaws, pedestrians and houses and shop fronts all competing for a slice of life!  Our driver was the bees knees - so calm, so safe, so considered. It was an absolute eye opener when we popped out of a narrow run down side street into this massive, well lit central square of Cusco that was alive with people, lights, stalls and a modern vibe. It was like a dream, because at the next turn we were back in the narrow, old world alley and deposited at the door of home for two nights.

Late checkin to the "belly button of the world" - grateful my birthday chocolates had arrived safely woth the luggage

Had a little missed heart beat when our pre transported luggage wasn't in the store room - but only a momentary pause, because it had already been delivered to our rooms in anticipation of our arrival.

 Cranked up the heaters, dialed up some room service and fell into some chairs for our little "oh my" moments before snuggling in at 6 degrees overnight at 3 399 metres.

Can you believe this?

🌞 Amazing & Weird Facts about the Inca Sun Temple (Torreón)

Architectural Marvel

- Curved Walls: Unlike most Inca buildings, the Temple of the Sun has a rare semi-circular tower with perfectly fitted stones, showing advanced masonry skills.  

- Hidden Cave: Beneath the temple lies a natural cave, believed to be a mausoleum or ritual chamber, possibly used for offerings to the gods.  

- Earthquake Resistance: The stones are cut so precisely that they interlock without mortar, making the temple resistant to earthquakes.

- Solstice Alignment: During the June solstice, sunlight enters through the temple’s window and illuminates a specific stone inside, marking the Inca calendar.  

- Dual Windows: The temple has two trapezoidal windows, thought to track both the summer and winter solstices, acting as a solar observatory.   

Survival Barometer

Steps 14 021 (I looked at stats - around 2 000 of them were clocked during of bumps of train ride and road trip 😅🤣😂)

Weather Machu Picchu 21 with afternoon downpour arrived in Cusco at 8 degrees for overnighter of 6

Health: all eating again - we think we are back with reservations and mindfulness 😅🤣😂

"Well on my way to 63 steps."

36: Birthday Greetings from Machu Picchu

   

 LOCATION:  Aquas Calientes, Machu Picchu Citadel

It should be ALL ABOUT ME - cause it is my birthday! Best gift ever however, is that I feel 7 out of 10 and almost human ready to face the day. Not interested in, or game to try breakfast, but feel that I am holding it together. Bring on the blue Gatorade.

Feeling 7 out of 10 for my birthday 

Another day of scheduling was ahead - glad @Mac has his $15 kmart watch because all we seem to do is watch the time! Needed to be at the hotel checkout at 5.50 am for the 6 pickup and the 6.52 delivery to the train for the 7.22 departure for the 10 am entry to Circuit 2. Phew. We made it. And, just for a ligh, worth noting that the train departed exactly at 7.22!

And if you think the list of times is a challenge - you should see the tickets! So much paperwork. All bits and chits that have to be stamped and scanned - it sort of creates work for the population no doubt. My dilemma was that my tickets had been issued with my old passport number on them - so there was,a little flurry of anxiety as adjustments and reissues were made.

Not that we are ever on our own! Adventure World is the company on the ground in South America who have been looking after us. Messages of reminders come in with What's App, drivers are present at every stop, associates turn up to walk and escort us from A to B and guides paint the pictures of the journey. In the chaos of life on the road, this team has been an endless stream of support. Today's connections, in thess crowds would have been a definite challenge without the stream of people who got us from one entrance to the next. Glad we are not wasting any energy on working out the details of how things work!

The Adventure

What a day. Exhilarating.  One of those remember forever sort of deals. 

I love how confident we are now is just walking away, knowing somehow it will all work out.  Just rolled our suitcases into the foyer, took a photo  and know that someone will pick it up and deliver it  to Cusco. We had an overnighter in Machu Picchu and were toting just a backpack with the all-weather essentials.

We just walk away and leave it now

Did the 40 minute crawling drive through the mountain roads and were surprised at how much activity was already in evidence - stalls setup, people working - every house seems to have a shop or business out the front. And of course, dogs everywhere. The scenery is continues to be spectacular - the sharp ridges lined in every shade of green, impissibly plummet to the valleys and settle into a plain filled with human activity.

Our driver made a stop to pick up the assistant who would navigate the train station with us. He had an ipad with photos on it and with the aid of the visuals stepped us through the journey ahead.

A little virtual walk through

I am a sucker for a train ride and this was magic amd had hype from the beginning. Music, a costumed parade to lead you to your carriage, dancing and the obligatory tickets stamp, scan and check multiple times for boarding.

Love the trsin

Settled in your seat the fun continues - the welcome aboard bouquets of herbs were accompanied by "included" drinks, snacks and chocolate. Welcome ceremonies, blessings, music, cocoa leaves, commentary, bird calls - it was non stop. And that was just the background to the view from the 360 windows of the train.

This was a postcard perfect view of the jagged snow topped ridgelines of the Andes contrasted with the broiling rapids of the mud filled Urubamba River that twisted and turned with the railway line. Breathtaking! And, we had the side of the train that was above the river. Toot toot for us! Felt we had to take 2 million photos in case we will be on the "other side" for the return journey.

Yep, met at the station for someone to take our backpacks, located the next ticket we would need and then walk us the 50 metres to join the queue for the buses.

Heading up to @Roger

Access to the citadel is only via this bus ride. For those who have been, you know the journey. For those who haven't, you can't imagine it!

The bus ride up feels like a slow-motion thrill ride. The narrow road clings to the mountainside, twisting through sharp switchbacks with nothing but steep and i mean STEEP drops into the valley below. Not sure how two buses fit side by side here - all I know is that you feel like you are hanging over the edge when they do pass.  The Urubamba River glints far beneath you, a constant reminder of just how high you’re climbing.  

Each bend seems tighter than the last - @Mac said he was going to count them - but so many I think he must have lost concentration.  It’s a short ride, but the sheer drops, blind corners, and sense of being suspended between mountain and river make you wonder how you ever got on this bus and trusted a stranger to drive you! Can only hope he's having a great day! 

Of course, there is an assistant waiting for us as we get off the bus to walk us to the next meet up point to connect with our guide. Nothing was left to chance. We did marvel at the line of people, ready with their 2 sols lined up for the loo. At 6 500 visitors a day - these loo guys are making a motza. 

Classic, iconic

Our guide was @Roger. Top notch. Paced our Circuit 2 stroll perfectly for us. Filled our stroll with both detail and patches of silence that enabled us to learn and "to be." 

Circuit 2 is the most popular and complete route and is billed as the perfect starting route for first ime visitor. That was us. We got the classic panoramic view (only had to walk uphill for 20 minites) and  then had access to major Inca structures like the Temple of the Sun, Sacred Rock, the extensive terraces and the residential areas. 

Sacred stone, mirrored Machu Picchu 

Sort of other worldly. A stone fortress suspended between a mountain top and a ribbon of river below. Lush green for us under blue clouded skies - it couldn't have been more perfect. And, I was enjoying all of this wearing my new birthday baby alpaca woven hat!

Loved every step and corner and story but admit after 2.5 hours of walking, we were relieved to see the exit gate.

Did need to join the seemingly endless bus line for the return white knickle ride and settled into the Inkaterra Restaurant for lunch. Again, not a lot of enthusiasm for the food on offer - did want the loo, but despite not needing 2 soks for entry, predictably it was two flights of stairs downstairs! I dared to indulge in food for the first time in two days, @Mac was on board, but @Deb and @Lloyd succumbing to the fuzzy tummy rumbles.

Birthday lunch

We were comfortably set up in ElMapi by 3 pm (again, escorted on the walk by an assistant) for the obligatory afternion nap and recovery session.

Birthday celebrations - subdued

Birthday dinner was in ElMapi  and it was a subdued celebration accompanied by some modifications for the plans for tomorrow. The appetite for food and heights seem to be dwindling although @Mac and I are committed to another session with @Roger to take on Circuit 3.

Can you believe this?

🌟 Amazing Facts About Machu Picchu from Co-Pilot

- Hidden from the Spanish  

  Unlike many Inca cities, Machu Picchu was never found by Spanish conquistadors, which is why it remains so well-preserved.  

- Rediscovered in 1911  

  American explorer Hiram Bingham brought Machu Picchu to international attention after locals guided him to the site.  

Built Without Wheels or Iron Tools  

  The Incas carved and transported massive stones using only simple tools and human labor—no wheels, draft  animals, or iron.  

- Astronomical Alignment  

  The Temple of the Sun is precisely aligned with the June solstice sunrise, showing the Incas’ advanced knowledge of astronomy.  

- Terrace Engineering  

  The agricultural terraces not only grew crops but also prevented landslides by stabilizing the mountain slopes.  

- Sacred Geography  

  Machu Picchu sits between two sacred peaks—Huayna Picchu and Machu Picchu Mountain—and is believed to have been chosen for its spiritual significance.  

- Size of the Site  

  The citadel covers 259 square kilometers, with around 200 structures including temples, residences, and ceremonial spaces.  

- Mystery of Its Purpose  

  Scholars debate whether it was a royal estate for Emperor Pachacuti, a religious retreat, or an astronomical observatory.  

Survival Barometer

Steps 13 799

Weather 14 degrees - no rain until we were safely in restaurant 

Health - all experiencing tummy troubles 

For Jesse: my birthday stop, Machu Picchu

"I can build just like the Incas!"