LOCATION: Machu Picchu to Cusco
Another day investigating the Incas - walking the footsteps of their civilisation and in awe of all that they achieved. The weather was our friend again and after we settled back in Aguas Calientes for lunch the absolute downpour that can typify a visit for others occurred with a fury. Shaking our heads at how kindly we have been treated!
Admitting that the group is feeling a little 'pass the parcel' weary - to cover this much territory in our projected 44 day adventure has meant that we have constantly been on the hop. Been ferried by bus, plane, car, boat and van down, up across, over and down again on this giant continent. It is not just the travel time that accumulates - it's all the prep and arrival and wait time that adds up.
Today was a typical example. Fun, exploration and adventure in the morning - tacked onto an afternoon and evening of "hauling ar$e" to a new destination and a late night checkin. It all looks simple on the map - finish the day with a 62 km drive from the train station to the next hotel - but that little number of kms on a mountain drive, at night, through switch backs, on barely wide enough roads, following a line of peak hour traffic all heading from the train station to Cusco, takes over two and a half hours.
It's no wonder that sitting huddled in our little debriefing circle of four, in our shared lounge area of our "boutique hotel," over a barely warm room service dinner, the sparkle, shine, drama and excitement of the morning's exploration seems a distant memory.
Nothing that a beer, a hot shower, a rinse of some undies and a good night's sleep won't fix. We'll rebound on the morrow - and secretly rejoicing we have a 1.00 PM (note that says PM ... yes, PM) start and an overnighter here!
The Adventure
Think this might be the first time in five weeks that we have separated into two little groups for our morning activity. We were headed up the trail again for a walk of Circuit 3 but @Deb and @Lloyd wanted to "do it with the locals" this morning.
Their adventures took them through the side streets, alleyways and markets of Aguas Calientes, up to the sporting grounds, over the bridges and along the river and into the life of the locals. They found real coffee AND pancakes and had plenty of people watching stories. Also dabbled a little into the 95% silver market.
@Roger picked us up at 10 am at the hotel and it was straight on the bus, no long lines this morning. A bit disappointed we jagged driver 30, he was a speed demon and had us approaching the switchbacks in the mid 30 kmp range (other drivers mid to high 20s)! Being in the very back seat didn't help much either, it was a bumpy, hair raising ride. Did arrive 30 minutes early to the Citadel and grateful that @Roger could use his charm to get us in that much earlier.
Totally different walk and talk today on Circuit 3 and confessing, perhaps one of my favourite days of our adventures so far. You'd think, same view, same story, just different rocks to wander by. Not the case.
This circuit is a little lower in the citadel - yesterday we were climbing for those sweeping iconic, panoramic views - but today we were in a position to see the detail of the life and working of the Citadel. When "discovered" it was a mass of tumbled stone, reclaimed by the jungle and today the estimate is that we are seeing about 40% of the city - the rest remains hidden and untouched.
You start by weaving past the Temple of the Sun, with its curved stone walls then dip towards the Royal Tomb, enter the House of the Inca (ha, and @Roger's joke of fhe King size bed), through the warehouses, school, craft and artisan halls and along the terraces. All reached by uneven stairs and an endless circuit of ups and downs. The most ardous, the 63 steps up to the terraces to take us back on the winding pathway to the spiritual altars and eventually for last views on the exit trail.
We were in smaller spaces like the Temple of the Condor, where the rock formations resemble wings, and then in the largest spaces of the Industrial Zone, with its mortar stones and workshops that reminded you this was a living, working city.
Sweeping terraces for agriculture, conduits that carry water, a rounded temple that mapped the movement of the sun, the signatures of the stonemasons, the alignment of the walls, the largest rocks, the smallest pieces, the reflections and angles, caves and tunnels - what a civilisation with stories of astronomy, ceremony, constitutions, philosophy and everyday life.
There were some stories that resonated strongly in the morning and will be front and centre for follow up:
- The Sacred trilogy of the condor, the puma and the snake and the connection of sky, earth and underworld plus the three guiding moral principles of do not steal, do not lie and do not be lazy
- the rise and fall of the empire from Siberian roots to Spanish conquest and the bloodlines of today's Peruvians ... still smiling at @Roger's aside "The only good thing the Spanish brought to Peru was cilantro."
- the mastery of astronomy and its impact on the agricultural planning for daily life - the alignment and reflection of the sun across the citadel, marked by peaks in the mountain, was straight out of an Indiana Jones movie.
Also, this was so special because of @Roger's endless commentary and insights. Can't wait to follow-up on the reading and viewing he has recommended.
Back on the bus for that last trip down the mountain and to the meetup with @DeLoy for lunch at a Peruvian Influenced Mexican Restuarant (go figure) and shared stories and photo recaps with a background of torrential rain.
On the dot of 3.30 , our "assistant" arrived to walk us to the station, collect our luggage and pour us into the train. Had the "dud" side of the train for the ride "home" but still entertained by the cultural offerings of Machu Picchu Rail (different food, different performances) and did have the benefit of the specatacualr ice covered mountain views as the train clawed its way back up hill to Ollantaytambo.
Another smooth pass the parcel hand over by Adventure World. @Vivienne was at the station to meet us and whisk us to the toilets before the rush of all the disembarking passengers and then into the van to our non English speaking driver. Amazing really, that you willingly bundle yourself into a van with a stranger and entrust them to navigate the twists and turns of the mountain roads. But there were dozens of vehicles on the same haul as we were and we snaked our way along the 60+ km journey through townships we had passed days before on our tour of the Sacred Valley, as we made our climb to the Incan capital of Cusco which apparently translates to "belly button of the world."
Not sure about that, but in the darkness of our after 8 arrival, it was more a cess pool of the world. The road infrastructure here not geared to mass tourism with buses, cars, vans, rickshaws, pedestrians and houses and shop fronts all competing for a slice of life! Our driver was the bees knees - so calm, so safe, so considered. It was an absolute eye opener when we popped out of a narrow run down side street into this massive, well lit central square of Cusco that was alive with people, lights, stalls and a modern vibe. It was like a dream, because at the next turn we were back in the narrow, old world alley and deposited at the door of home for two nights.
Had a little missed heart beat when our pre transported luggage wasn't in the store room - but only a momentary pause, because it had already been delivered to our rooms in anticipation of our arrival.
Cranked up the heaters, dialed up some room service and fell into some chairs for our little "oh my" moments before snuggling in at 6 degrees overnight at 3 399 metres.
Can you believe this?
🌞 Amazing & Weird Facts about the Inca Sun Temple (Torreón)
Architectural Marvel
- Curved Walls: Unlike most Inca buildings, the Temple of the Sun has a rare semi-circular tower with perfectly fitted stones, showing advanced masonry skills.
- Hidden Cave: Beneath the temple lies a natural cave, believed to be a mausoleum or ritual chamber, possibly used for offerings to the gods.
- Earthquake Resistance: The stones are cut so precisely that they interlock without mortar, making the temple resistant to earthquakes.
- Solstice Alignment: During the June solstice, sunlight enters through the temple’s window and illuminates a specific stone inside, marking the Inca calendar.
- Dual Windows: The temple has two trapezoidal windows, thought to track both the summer and winter solstices, acting as a solar observatory.
Survival Barometer
Steps 14 021 (I looked at stats - around 2 000 of them were clocked during of bumps of train ride and road trip 😅🤣😂)
Weather Machu Picchu 21 with afternoon downpour arrived in Cusco at 8 degrees for overnighter of 6
Health: all eating again - we think we are back with reservations and mindfulness 😅🤣😂
"Well on my way to 63 steps."
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