Fighting the crowds for views from the Brazilian side LOCATION: Iguazu to Rio de Janeiro
This was the day that we had the most concerns about. But Dario and Marco smoothed all of those worries and problems away. When we checked out the itinerary before leaving, it looked as if we were going to make three border crossings on this day. The reality was that @Dario considered himself a VIP, and he had a plan to get us through fast-tracked, and into Brazil, without any problems at all. What had been taking on incredible complexity in our imaginations, turned out to be a simple, SINGLE stress free border crossing.
@Dario really made the day fun and informative. He was “sex on a stick” personified and swaggered his way through this national park, dripping confidence and casually tossing a coconut in the air chatting, talking and joking. He seemed to be on a familiar basis with someone at every gate, elevator, shop and turn. He was literally sprinkled with magic Disney dust! Never hurried, totally laid back, attentive and just fun to be with. We were impressed that he was so affable - as a proud new father of a two month old daughter you could’ve excepted that he may have been a little bit harried.
The Adventure
Today’s activities
A. First job was to present to the border to complete the paperwork. On the Argentinian side, @Dario jumped out of the car, ran inside with the four passports and within five minutes was back in the car stamp complete. The fact that some random young traveller rocked up to the car and opened the front door to hop in (wrong car, wrong driver, wrong group) set off a string of banter with the driver that really relaxed everyone into the shared "familia" that seems to be the Argentinian way of descriding how close you need to be on your tours.
Stress free border crossing - no lines for us - VIPs @Marco traversed the 2km of no man’s land, (probably still thinking of the missed opportunity wothcthe young spiritedly one at the border) and saw a snaking line of trafficll. No worries, VIP. Passed that in a heartbeat, cruised on in a designated lane with visas in hand and entered an office where we were the only ones at the counter. @Dario did all the talking - handed over our paperwork and in the silence of the room - stamp, stamp, stamp, stamp and our first bumbling attempts at “obrigato “ and “obrigata “ (@Dario had schooled us) we were through in under 10 minutes. Crossed the half and half bridge (painted national colours on each appropriate side) and that was it - a total non event.
B. Iguazu Falls from Brazil - Skipping ahead a little, sort of glad we did the border crossing here at Iguazu. Later in the evening when we arrived in Rio, we could see the immigration line on our transit of the airport and it was horrendous! There were advantages to flying domestic! We just waltzed through, or should I say "swaggered" we had learnt something from @Dario!
All smiles when @Dario is your manBack to the falls. Yesterdays adventure in Argentina was above and the on the falls. Today’s view a totally different experience. When @Marco entered the park, the vehicle was provided with a tracking device to ensure we didn’t veer off the beaten track. All very civilised with vehicles (very few) and buses (lots of them) all obeying speed limits and access rules.
First look at the "minor falls"Our three hour visit was a leisurely stroll with @Dario who by passed queues and took us to vantage points, where possible, that were not quite so crowded, all the while sharing snippets, answering questions and tossing the coconut. Every now and then he had to sidle up to a local lift operator, or gate attendant, flash his smile and pave the way for us.
On this side, you are below the falls and the attraction is the sweeping panoramic views of the 275+ falls.. Got some laughs as we watched the boats nudge up to the falls at San Martin and the Three Musketeers remembering our drenching from yesterday.
Reliving yesterday's views
The centre piece though is the board walk out to the front of the Devil’s Throat. This was wall to wall human squash! Nothing to do but mince your way through with tiny little steps and follow someone tall (lucky i have my hero @WJMac to lead the way.) Somehow we found ourselves hooked up to a local family and it was as if I had found my soulmate on the walkway under the Devil’s Throat. For some reason we had a million photos woth them (felt i should check my handbag amd make sure our cards hadn't been skimmed - it was very intense with higs and kisses and laughs) but did use them as our steam roller to forge a path back.
Not quite as wet on this side - more a mist filled with ever changing and dancing waterfalls - but the roar was deafening. And the panoramic views of the face of the falls along the valley definitely worth the visit.
Did I mention how himid it was? The bees were soaking up the water opportunity
As a criticism (and how do you control what animals turn up) - not seeing much wildlife. A ghecko, loads of butterflies in all sorts of colours and patterns, families of the raccoons (need their name), plenty of the hawks over head and the stately water birds dotting the top of the falls. No cats of any size (thankfully), no toucan (sadly.)
Still have some steps and people masses to navigate Check out the people on the boardwalk - that is the goal - the Devil's Throat Rounded out the trip with a quest for an ice cream and sat and enjoyed it on the banks of the river. Finger licking good (metaphorically speaking @Richard.)
Ice cream treat - perfect ending For @Gary - took this pic of the amazing 88 Butterfly on a lady's elbow - showed @Mac, his reposne "That cracks me up!"
C. Flight to Rio - That all added up to a leisurely arrival at the airport. Close to an hour in the morning of driving and formalities and plus three hours of strolling at the Falls we arrived around noon for our afternoon flight. Plenty of time for an innovative freshen up. We were soaked through from the waterfall mist and more dramatically from perspiration. The humidity has been intense.
We were flying domestically with GOL and were first in the queue for checkin and moved through security to the upper levels and the lounge area. Thought we might load up the WISE card with some Brazilian Real .. but hit a stumbling block because you have to be a citizen to hold money in a digital wallet. Apparently. No worries, our next option was to front up to the ATM to withdraw some cash. Plugged in the equivalent of $100 - first message advised there would be a $15 fee - shrugged our shoulders and gave a heavy sigh and selected OK only to be gteeted by a second messsge advising that for this transaction there would be a second charge of $20! Not happening -cancelled that. $35 in fees - backed that little card out of the slot and resigned ourselves to a lean few days!
Boarded on time for the two hour flight. Wow. Smallest leg room ever. @Mac’s seat was broken and he was in permanent recline (must have been nasty for the person behind) and not an unoccupied seat within view. The overhead bins were stacked with luggage - (can’t believe how much stuff people bring on in their 5kg allowance here -some passengers had the big hard case wheelie,m, an oversize backpack and a large carryall ) and to top it off, couldnt beilueve ascthe biggest passenger on the flught made his way to our row and squeezed into the third seat in our row.
But it was all over pretty quickly and we arrived in darkness in Rio and yep, we’re grateful we were on the domestic side of the petition waltzing through the airport to be greeted, once again, reliably, by our driver. Portuguese is the language of choice - and we have none - and did make the quantum leap that “MacNamara and Wilson” had to be us - it was close enough. And just to top off the GOL experience, the boom gates in the car park had a malfunction as we arrived to exit which sort of added to the chaotic fun of arrival.
Not much room and definitely no toilet stops
We are here for three nights. Got an upgrade from “partial ocean views” to “ocean views” don’t know why and don’t care …. we were thrilled with the room (enormous and great views of the beach - sure there will be ocean in daylight.)
Welcome to Rio .. especially the Wilsons!
Literally dumped the bags and walked half a block to the local supermarket and with the aid of the translator app cobbled together some food and drink choices for an in room meal. We could see the beach action - cabanas set up as restaurants, volleyball and soccer happening everywhere, music drinks dancing, markets - probably stretching for 2kms along the beach of Copocabana. Shame we are cash poor and had to settle for a toasted roll and a banana. Bought a bottle wine. - naively hadn’t realised it had a cork … so just had to look at it standing on our table in the room and dream (longingly) of a Pinot Gris. Did send a message to our neighbours asking if the “Wilson’s” had a Swiss Army knife with a corkscrew. Got a classic message back. @Lloyd had used a pair of scissors to open his beer and @Deb was using a dorito chip as her spoon to eat her yoghurt. Did hear a tap on the door and it was @Lloyd to the rescue with his opened screw top bottle of white to “share.” How did he fluked that?
It is a tough life being a tourist.
PS Have appreciated the organisation so far - @Dario was a definite winner today. Always glad to see the driver at the airport and @Barbara, our on the ground Rio contact called us at the hotel to make sure we were settled and to confirm the plans for tomorrow.
PPS People watching update - ha ha. What a coincidence. @Deb was standing at a meeting point for us today and who should call out to her as a long lost "familia" nember but @Milvia. Was such a short interaction but the news on the street was that @Michael (have a chat) and @Pauline (bee sting) didn’t have their Brazilian visa and were left behind at the border! Oh my. No further details and no mention of @Georgina as @Milvia waved and said “Have to go.” Well fancy that. Feels like a mystery novel where someone has torn out the last chapter … we will never know the ending!
Survival Barometer
Steps 12 736
Weather Iguazu 33 Rio 26 on arrival
Health fresh air and fab scenery keeps you on top of the world
Can you believe this?
Co Pilot assessment of the Falls from both sides
Key Facts About Devil’s Throat - from acorn-Pilot
- Height & Size: 82 meters high, 150 meters wide, and 700 meters long.
- Volume of Water: Receives about half of the Iguazú River’s flow, making it the most powerful section of the falls.
- Shape: A dramatic U-shaped chasm, creating a natural amphitheater of mist and thunder.
- Border Location: Lies directly on the Argentina–Brazil border, shared by Iguazú National Park (Argentina) and Iguaçu National Park (Brazil).
- Access: Visitors reach it via the Rainforest Ecological Train and a walkway that leads to the viewing platform right above the abyss.
For Jesse ... always saw the white toucan yesterday- so excited - the beaks was enormous
"I've been doing my bird research - hard to find a toucan."
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