Saturday, March 21, 2026

19: Wet is best under the falls

Devil's Throat worth the walk!

   LOCATION:  Iguazu

Love the O2 but there are only two glass elevators to serve its 10 floors - each lift has a capacity of 4 passengers - makes it a bit of a lottery trying to get up and down the building in peak times. And a little crazy that for a country that loves its partying late nights, seems bizarre that we had, along with everyone else, a 7.25 am start! Might stay off the rooftop tonight.

The Adventure

Our visit to the Falls today was with a group of 23 hosted by our guide @Milvia. 

So much to do in the area - guess you could spend days on this Argentinian side of the park. It was a combo - a walk to the veil of Falls that included San Martin, a jet boat ride on the river and finally a train ride to deliver us to the walkway to see the spectacular Devil's Throat. 

But of course you need to get there. Because this was a shared tour- had to do the hotel hopper of pickup to gather all the guests - which meant the 20 minute drive to the park stretched to an hour. The group was a mix of nationalities and languages - and ages and even different itineraries - so it was a good thing we had that extra time in the bus. Seemed like it took 10 minutes to explain in Spanish which was then followed by just one sentence in English. 

Walking for the first glimpse

That was sort of the chaotic pattern of the day with @Milvia challenged in keeping things moving. We were never quite sure if we were Arthur or Martha or Jose or Rosita and have reaffirmed that we are not very good at "sharing."

The place itself was exhilarating and i am conceding qwas great to connect with the stories of other travellers and eventually we found our niche in the chaos and soaked up (literally) the experience of the falls.

Our adventure - walked the orange Superior Route, travelled on the river on blue route to the face of the falls, train and walk on black dotted and red route to Devil's Throat. Tick, tick tick!

A. San Martin and small falls - the first impression of the falls- oh wow. Just an endless arc of separate waterfalls stretching as far as the eye could see. Access is gained either by a small train or by a 600 metre walk to the head of the Superior Circuit. We took the walk and tried to go up ahead and quietly to spot some living thing - absolutely on high alert for a toucan. No luck in that department - but hordes of colourful butterflies did show us the way.

Sticking to the pathways

The access is very tourist friendly - all carefully signed pathways which led to a series of overhanging metal walkways to get you close to the action of the falls. We were taking our first look at the thundering, mist filled viel from above and we could see the boats below on the river which would be our next stop 

Walking the Superior  ircuit

B. Gran Ventura Adventure - A definite highlight of the day. This tour takes you down onto the river. You access by boarding a "truck" for the 20 minute ride through the jungle track. Perched high above the ground, the guide invites you to keep your eye out for wildlife. In case we don't spot them (we didn't) the guide has colourful posters to share. Arrived at the station ready to navigate the 30 metre drop to the boats by way of 300 stairs. The recurring question of the day had been around your health. @Milvia had approached the "old people" (yep, i was a target) a few times during the morning warning that you were not permitted to board if you had any health problems. Just before departure she reminded us to say "no, no, no" if asked.

Getting - truck amd steps - all aboard
Spotted the capybara

The staff in yellow shirts watched the passengers descend the stairs - i was waiting for a crook to come out and pluck the weaklings. Story has a happy ending because we all made the Muster and just as well because as we were lined up on the bottom step waiting for life vests, three brown rounded rocks magically transformed into capybaras! We saw them. One big one, stood up, took its time and slowly paddled into the water and took off for a swim.

Time to jacket up and board. As well as the life cest, you were provided with a huge waterfproof duffel bag to store your stauff and keep it dry. An inderstatement to say it was an essential .

Boat edged slowly under the waterfall - wet!

It was a fast and slow, straight and swerving ride along the Iguazú . On reaching the first round of rapids a huge wave entered the back of the boat and @Mac was drenched. His immediate question "Are we there yet?" Once he had the water out of his ears, eyes and nose, he happily and spluttering proclaimed it refreshing!

@Mac's reaction to "wet"

 We rode the river close to the three falls known as the Three Musketeers and this was a drenching point for all passengers on board. Moved the boat into San Martin falls - twice the volume of the first and copped an absolute hammering. Hot and humid conditions meant it was a welcomed drenching. All laughs and cheers from everyone on board.

Put it in reverse and it was a return journey - through the rapids, up the three hundred stairs and in the truck for the return. 

Still no toucan or any other animals except the beautiful butterflies. Seems that thr majority of animals are sensible  and they are nocturnal.

C. No time for lunch (well one person had lunch ..   😔)- just a little grab and go of something and it was onto the platform to wait for the train. 

All smiles on the train ride 

The 15 minute ride delivered you to the top of the falls and the 1500 metre walkway to Devil's Throat. This is the showcase finale and this thundering cascade accounts for 50 per cent of the fall's width and creates its own little micro climate. It was time to get wet again because the broiling water not only makes a freight train sound but dispels mist high into the air. 

The walkway

The walkway is perched  above the river - so access to the throat has you literally walking above the water for the 1500 metres. And as we made our way over the bridge a rain cloud swept by and for 5 minutes we were walking in the rain. Plenty of birds here (hawks and cormorants that we could recognize), fish including a huge catfish and a solitary turtle. Still no toucan.

It was wet and wild and a rain shower homeward bound
Tjats a lot of water!

D. "People watching" has to be included in this recount because this was our first interaction with a wider group. We did get some mileage out of @Michael who had been everywhere, done everything and knew everything. A fellow Aussie, whose voice dominated the rainforest and who was probably responsible for single handedly scaring away every toucan within 2 kms. He was accompanied by his wife @Pauline who was probably only a a mere decibel below him in volume and who sadly was bitten by a bee on the return journey from the boat. Um, oh dear, Pauline had an allergic reaction to the sting (swelling, pain, throat closing) and had to be treated in emergency with a cortisone injection. Apparently, bee stings are the most common injury in the park! Good on her, she did bounce back but sat out the Devil's Throat walk. And then there was Georgina - definitely the oldest in the group - and she was perpetually lost or lagging. We missed our allocated train spot because she was "hungry" and felt a need to sit in a restaurant and have a solid meal ... meanwhile the remaining members of the group were dispatched across all points of the compass to find her. APPARENTLY in their 15 days together on the Patagonia hiking trip, this little group of 8 have been "dealing" with Georgina's "I can do whatever I want and you must look after me" antics. Big topic of disgruntled train conversion was around the fact that Georgina doesn't have a visa to cross the border to Brazil tomorrow! Might be another disaster on the horizon and @Michael was getting stuck onto her on the train journey home.

E. Finally home we called a one hour breather - more to rest our ears rather than our feet. Refreshed, headed down the hill (80 metres) to pull up a table of four in the Mexican restaurant. The town centre was packed. Live music and entertainment at every venue - or so it seemed. And 90 percent of the clientele were set up on the roadway which was now closed to traffic. 

Enjoying the immersive Mexican experience

@Daniel looked after us for the evening - kept the bottomless included nachos coming, successfully tempted us with the two for one happy hour offerings and filled our plates with tasty burritos. Our entertainment was the dance floor. A lively rotation of tango inspired dancing lead by a professional team. They showcased the moves and then targeted people in the audience to have a little lesson and dance. We sat with our faces in food and drink hidden under the oversized sombreros and enjoyed it all as observers rather than participants. Easy to have a good time here!

Back up the hill to O2, The men had Bailey's Duty to complete. @Deb and I were done for - and it was only just shy of 9 pm. No idea what time they were done .. I was drawing the zzzzs.

Got a visa-required border crossing tomorrow (now wouldn't you like to be a fly on the wall with Georgina tomorrow) .... fingers, toes eyes and legs crossed.

Survival Barometer

Steps 19 840 (if i had known we were that close i would have done a lap of the hotel hallway!)

Weather - 34 - humid- one 5 minute shower of rain

Health - foot weary and tired - but happy and 🙏 grateful

Can you believe this?

🌈 Amazing Facts About Iguazú Falls (Argentina Side)

🌍 1. It’s officially one of the New 7 Wonders of Nature

Iguazú Falls earned its place as a global natural wonder thanks to its sheer scale, beauty, and biodiversity.

💦 2. The number of waterfalls changes constantly

Depending on rainfall, the system can shift between 150 and 300+ waterfalls — meaning the view is never the same twice.

🌊 3. The water flow can increase by 7.5 times during rainy season

When the Iguazú River swells, the falls transform from powerful to absolutely monstrous, with water volume surging dramatically. 

"Nanny, I'm with you - it's been a big one."


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