LOCATION:
What's happening?
First loading of the Zodiacs this morning was 7 am and that was us! We allow 30 minutes for dressing in layers and 15 minutes in case @Marieka calls us early ... with a few wakeup minutes added for morning ablutions ... that means a start time of 6 am. Very early for @Mac ... that's more like his bedtime than his get up time. And, in his save-the-world commitments in "Clash of Clans," today is the start of one week of battle rankings. It's a tough life here in the Antarctica.
But, boy oh boy, it pays to be early. We congregated on the @Clews' balcony to welcome the day with whale slapping antics of a group of humpbacks. They were so curious, they were nudging at the side of the Zodiacs that were lowered into the water. Our 7 am departure was into smooth waters - by the 8.30 am landing - the passengers were dressed ched by spray from the swell and for the third group at 10 ... there was some suggestion they might not be able to go.
They did make it assure but were accompanied by a full complement of emergency gear - shelter and food supplies in case they got caught ashore.
Have to compliment the Silversea team on their organisation. No doubt this happens on every expedition ship across all brands. The attention to detail is exceptional in all facets of their operation. Every staff member, no matter the time of day - greets you! Housekeeping and food just "happen." There is full transparency in all operations - decision making is shared in a timely manner. The Expedition Team members are so knowledgeable and share their insights as if everything were a first sighting or experience for them. Your curiosity, wonder and engagement seems to energise them and their blue shirts just seem to be everywhere - they are so so so accessible.
The Adventure
Ticked off attendance at a few activities:
A. A wet landing to start the day at Demoy Point. It was smooth sailing for us for the short journey to shore.
Quick trip ashore
We had the walking sticks today so we were handling a little more gear, but as always, @Mareika had plenty of hands on shore to help with the leg swing out of the Zodiac and the traverse of the rocks. Icy, wet, guano covered boulders and pebbles greeted us for the first 20 metres and then it was an ice trek amongst the penguins. Towels were placed on the rocks to help with grip but @Alveros gave me a helping hand to make the traverse.
Penguins were everywhere - and the young moulting babies were attracted to the red of our jackets and even the red of the flapping flags. They apparently associate the colour with the beaks of the adults - where a tap usually rewards them with food!
There was a real sense of freedom associated with trudging across the ice. The boots are fabulous and despite feeling stiff and bulky they provide great traction where the surface gives way. Not so much on the patches of slick unyielding ice - that's where the poles add stability.
Our turn on the ice was for a duration of 75 minutes. That gave us plenty of time to make the uphill downhill traverse to the hut. This location hosted the most southerly airstrip in Antarctica. Now wouldn't that be something to see an aircraft overhead. This British transit station was decommissioned in 1993 - so I don't think so! Had to settle for signing the visitor's book before rejoining the gentoo penguins for the trek back up the hill.
Must say, with everyone out on the ice - sort of need a unique penguin call to find your mate - because everyone looks the same! Anyway, I did find mine because he was the tall silly one, threatening to slide down the hill with the penguins!
The ride back was a damp affair, but @Karen had us back on board relatively dry and just in time for the last sitting at breakfast in The Restaurant. Let the champagne flow with our variations of eggs Benedict this morning because it really was just that sort of "special" and certainly worth the early start.
B. @Captain Sasha then nudged us into Skontorp Cove in Paradise Bay where we joined @Daniel for our afternoon scouting of this picturesque stretch of water. The cove is ringed by a series of glaciers which meant that cracks and pops of moving ice echoed around us. We had great spotters on board and found penguins, seals and whales. Sidled up to the shore for a drive by of the Argentinian Brown Station, found the shags on rocks, the lichen and algae.
We saw people at this station
@Daniel was keen to share the highlights and was as reluctant to leave the water and return to the ship as we were. Your allocated Zodiac time of 75 minutes definitely disappears way too quickly.
Mind you - we have had no trouble with the weather. Apparently last week's group endured heavy rain on every excursion - maybe that would stretch time rather than shrink it.
Back on board - the excursion seemed to continue. From the balcony, there was a seal soaking up the rays on an ice raft just below us and the humpbacks continued to offer some lazy fluked waves.
A whale wave
C. Our recap with @Marieka is the daily precursor to dinner. The news today of the weather forecast was not quite so positive. We might be in for a little change tomorrow and we will get to test our resolve in windy wet conditions. Maybe it will change overnight. Here's hoping.
And yes, we dutifully turned up for dinner where drinks food and conversation flowed and AT LAST we cracked the crossword!
All smiles repporting for food slots!
Happy to report that showers were squeezed into the middle session of the day - probably only possible because we didn't need to fit in a lunch session. The trials and tribulations of Antarctic Land Explorers!
Survival Barometer
Steps 11631
Weather another stunner - temperature highs and lows here only vary by 1 degree - so anytime is a good time - 3 degrees
Health - one little slip on the rocks ashore for our group - and us this possible - i can barely move my right arm from clenching the walking poles
You need all the gear!!!
Legs ... merino long johns, merino track pants, waterproof outers
Extremities- merino balaclava, wool hat or headband, merino socks liners plus ski socks, merino gloves liners with phone enabled touch, mittens and hand warmers
Top - merino thermal, merino jumpers, long pashmina (?) scarf, water/wind proof jacket with down liner plus anchored hanky 😅🤣😂
Can you believe this?
❄️ An Amazing Fact About Cruising South of the Antarctic Circle from Co-Pilot
Once you cross the Antarctic Circle, you enter a part of the planet where the Sun can stay above the horizon for 24 hours — and the ocean itself can glow at night.
Why this is astonishing
- In high summer, the region south of the Circle experiences true polar daylight. Even at midnight, the sky can be bright enough to read a book on deck.
- But the real magic happens when the light fades: the waters here are home to bioluminescent plankton that can ignite the sea with electric‑blue light.
- Ships have reported leaving glowing trails behind them, like a comet streaking across the ocean.
- This phenomenon is so rare in polar regions that many expedition guides have never seen it — but it does happen, especially in the deep, nutrient‑rich waters of the Bellingshausen Sea.
- South of the Circle, the ice, the sky, and the sea all behave differently. The air is so clear and dry that mountains 150 km away look close enough to touch. And the silence is so complete that you can hear icebergs cracking from kilometres away.
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