27: Dancing like a frigate and a booby

@Mac putting on his Frigate burd dance moves for @Jaime

    LOCATION: North Seymour and South Plaza, Galapagos

Plenty to see today and the wildlife is prolific! It is more a case of stepping over and around the animals than looking for them.

@Jaime is never in a hurry and you do get time to enjoy tthe sights, sounds and smells of the walk. So grateful to have @Justin on hand to walk with me over the uneven lava surfaces. This morning's walk was on uneven ground while this afternoon's added slick white guano to the surface of the rocks.

The snorkelling activity was in the deep of the ocean today. We were dropped off shore and the current took you towards the shore and swept you into the bay.  Deep water meant bigger animals - sea lions, sharks, rays, turtles and closer to the shore adjacent to the cliff, the endless stream of brightly coloured fish.

Who would have thought a week ago we would be hurling ourselves into the water chasing for views of hammerhead sharks.

The routine of the day is established. Shoes on and off, wet landing, dry landing, walking sticks, snorkelling bag and showers! Am constantly attached to the bar of sunlight soap -trying to rinse out the multiple change of clothes. Each balcony has a clothesline set up on it and ours is constantly full.

My leather Adidas walking shoes have been fantastic on this trip so far ... until today. The heat from the morning walk, combined with the odd angle of foot placement separated the glue from the seam that joins the sole. I am going to have leaking shoes for the Amazon!!

The shirt I was wearing  has a metal zip at the neckline at the back. It heated up so much in the sun it burnt me! Was a hot day.

Food continues to be a highlight and it is plentiful. Plenty of seafood and the fresh fruit and vegetables pack plenty of taste.

Have way too many photos so going to try and limit to just four from each segment of the day.

Morning walk - all about the birds, the frigates and blue footed boobies -  including a video of a frigate's egg laying . Massive cheers from the assembled audience whne that little white ball finally popped out!

Yep, egg laying 

The snorkelling - all about the big animals, deep water ocean, in very strong current

Afternoon walk - sea lion pups, guano rocks, blue footed booby, finches, iguanas. cactus, sheer cliffs

Had a cute surprise in our room this evening - all decorated to wish us happy anniversary - Complete with love hearts, balloons, chocolate and a cake. There are three couples celebrating on this trip and we all got the same treatment.

Rounded our the evening with drinks on the upper deck in the breeze created by Treasure motoring for 6 hours toward's tomorrow's destination.

From the itinerary 

This morning you will enjoy a tour of North Seymour island which is generally flat and strewn with boulders. There are good nesting sites here for a large population of magnificent frigate birds. Blue-footed boobies perform their courtship dance in the more open areas and swallow-tailed gulls perch on the cliff edges. Despite the tremendous surf that can pound the outer shore, sea lions haul out onto the beach and can be found bodysurfing. Do watch your step as the boobies don't worry much about where they nest, and you might just step on one. The trees are dotted with male frigate birds trying to attract the attention of the ladies by inflating their bright red skin flaps. They sometimes fly in the air to call more attention to themselves. 
This afternoons excursion will be on the South Plaza Islet. While landing there, a barking Galapagos sea lion bull may block the jetty for a loud welcome to his beach and rookery. Overall, this islet breaths a unique Jurassic ambiance, with its psychedelic reddish flora and giant Opuntia cacti covering the landscape and providing food and shelter for thousands of endemic marine and Barrington iguanas. During this visit, you will also have the opportunity to swim over a reef of boulders that attracts an amazing variety of marine life, such as sea turtles, reef sharks, stingrays, and sea lions.

Can you believe this?

Here are some of the weirdest facts about blue-footed boobies:

Color Dependent on Diet: Their feet are not inherently blue. The color comes from carotenoid pigments found in the fresh fish they eat.

Feet Color Matters in Mating: Males with brighter blue feet are more attractive to females. If a male is malnourished, his feet will turn dull.

"Clumsy" Name Origin: Their name comes from the Spanish word bobo ("stupid" or "clown"), given by explorers because of their clumsy, unafraid behavior on land.

No Nest, Just Poo: Instead of building a nest, they often lay their eggs on bare ground and create a protective, decorative ring around them using their own excrement. .

The Mating Dance: To woo a female, the male performs a high-stepping dance, lifting his bright feet one by one to showcase them, paired with a, "sky-pointing" ritual.

Only One Survives: While they lay 1-3 eggs, often only one chick survives, as the older, stronger sibling frequently outcompetes the younger one for food.

Survival Barometer

Steps 10 498

Weather 32 - searing heat outdoors today

Health @Deb is back - we are all on deck today!

For Jesse - we found the blue footed booby today on the island! You have to look closely to see him on the rock!

This is what he looked like in the water! Very blue feet

"I could help collecting the eggs from the frigate birds!"

"Did someone say Blue Footed Booby?"

26: In the water, on the land at Galapagos

Perfect day on land and in water

    LOCATION:  Galapagos 

My advice - just do it. No doubt there are thousands of places in Australia that offer similar experiences but when you have the opportunity to get into a pristine environment and get close to the living things in it - as i said ....just do it. 

Not sure i can keep up with the commentary - the days are so full. Had four activities today - two walks and two snorkelling excursions interspersed with meals.

You are front and centre starting at 7 am - and the day doesn't stop. You are kitting up for walks, stripping down for swims and alternating between showers and hanging out wet gear. It is hot, sticky and salty. And absolutely exhilarating. There is no need to search for wildlife here - it is just prolific.

First walk to see lava flows

Had @Justin, one of the crew allocated as my personal carer on the walk over the uneven surfaces on our volcanic lava expedition in the morning. Hugely appreciated - meant @Mac could do his sprint across the rocks. @Jaime on hand with all the commentary and detail of the geology amd biology of the area.

Lots to explore and @Jaime full of info

Adventure one into snorkelling was tentative - but instructions and gear so good, really just a matter of gaining confidence. Vibrant colours, clear water teaming with fish, @Mac incredulous that little penguins got up close and personal with him in the chest and face mask - what a start! 

We don't have underwater camera to capture the adventure but again, it is like being in your own documentary.

Underwater shots courtesy of @Tara

Adventure two in the afternoon crazy spectacular. Swimming this time with a little raft of penguins, chasing the sea Lions (no chance, but we gave it a go, they are so fast), floating above sharks and rays and in an absolute state of euphoria as the currents trail you along the rocky shore.

Spotted our first blue footed booby and had to adjust our landing plans back to the boat because a sea lion had propped itself up on the boat.

Rounded out the day with a long walk high above the pinnacle of Bartholomew Island and home just in time for the striking red sunset that put on a perfect show from the upper deck of The Treasure.

A long hike for a bird's eye view

Meals have been amazing- conversation now flowing in the group as shared experiences bind us together. A great group - lots of stories andx veryone is keeping an eye out for each other amd making sure we all see what is on offer.

Confessing that I am struggling to keep awake for the 8.30 briefing. Four excursions, all involving effort and energy ensure the battery is running on low come the end of the day.

The schedule

From the itinerary ...

DAY 2 SULIVAN BAY AND BARTOLOME

After breakfast you will enjoy a tour of Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island, which is also known as James Island. Located in thewestern-central part of the Galapagos, this is the fourth largest island in the archipelago (following Isabela, Fernandina andSanta Cruz). Santiago is volcanically active, with many young flows and cones to be seen, particularly along the southern, western, and eastern coasts. A number of large eruptions have been reported here over the last 2 centuries. 

This afternoon you will be taken on a tour of Bartolome Island, which is situated across Sullivan Bay. The island has an altitude of 114 metres and offers one of the most incredible vistas in the Galapagos Islands including volcanic cones, lunarlike craters, lava fields and the famous Toba formed pinnacle eroded by the sea. 

PS @Deb unwell today and confined to cabin. Crew looking after her and extremely attentive. Fingers crossed it is just a dehydration issue. After rough night and day - has tried some chicken broth today

PPS @Mac suffering part 2 today - other cheek swollen - looking a little scary to start the day 

Does my cheek look big in this

Can you believe this?

Key Features of Lava in Santiago Island:

Sullivan Bay Activity: Features vast, flat pahoehoe lava, formed in the late 19th century (approx. 1897), which presents a smooth, ropy texture.

Volcanic Structures: The site is characterized by "hornitos" (small, rootless cones formed by gas bubbles) and, occasionally, the molds of trees that were covered by the molten flow, explains Galapagos Cruises Travel.

Formations: The cooling lava created varied shapes, including braids, curtains, and swirls, making it a popular spot for photography, according to Happy Gringo Travel and galapagoscruceros.ec.

Life on the Lava: Despite the barren, harsh conditions, lava cactus (Brachycereus nesioticus) and Mollugo plants have begun to colonize the fissures

Survival Barometer

Steps 9573

Weather 34 and humid - salt water sticky

Health - @Mac day 2 of swollen cheek - @Deb had a day in cabin with slight improvement in the evening

For Jesse ... blazing sunset had us running up the stairs to get card .. it happens so fast

"I could do those steps!"

25: A flight a boat and a celebration

 

Welcome aboard the Treasure of Galapagos

   LOCATION:  Baltra, Galapagos Islands

That was a quick turn around! Barely time to sing Happy Anniversary in the dark as the alarms fired off at 4.30. Bags packed, clothes organised - we are masters at this early get away stuff. Paid our transport bill from yesterday as part of the checkout and then gave @DeLoys a little frightened as @Mac tried to smile with his swollen distorted leftcheek and top lip. A little reaction to medication had him looking like Quazimoto.

Not the first time the Swisshotel has bid farewell to guests early - they have a little breakfast station setup for guests - not that @Mac could take advantage of it without a straw!

Early flight - again

Back on that narrow run to the airport with @Danny and @JuanCarlos - crossed the Equator and reported to Quito International one of the most beautiful airports we have visited on this trip. New and sparkling and fitted with every comfort amenity you can imagine - even has designated and immaculately appointed Pet Restrooms!

Might have missed some of the flight highlights

Met by @Tatiana from the Treasures of Galapagos boat and reminded once again about the US$200 per person in cash, the transit card and the Biosecurity Declaration. Absolutely nothing left to chance here and have to say @Tatiana took care of everything even down to completing the baggage handling and check-in process. We were just whisked through to find a comfortable spot to wait for boarding.

Another flight with refuelling stop

Didn’t have the luxury of the behind the curtain service today but were only a few rows back. Mind you, didn't need the toulet urgently so it was okay to do that long walk to the back of the plane. 

A two stage process to get us south. 45 minutes from Quito to Guayaquil - a 50 minute sit in the plane for a refuel - then a final 1 hour 45 minute hop to Baltra Island. Flew from the volcanic peaks of Quito to the coastal islands of Galapgos and once again accompanied by reminders of biosecirty QR codes, park entry in cash, transit cards and as a final touch, were sprayed with some aerosol fumigant as we came in to land.

Welcome to Galapagos 

What a difference an airplane ride can make. Back at sea level, stunning heat, turquoise blue water and a welcome to the Galapagos complete with walking your shoes through the disinfectant tank, handing over all that paperwork and cash and passing the dog sniffing test for organic material. @Lloyd's luggage was singled out - but a false alarm.

Ushered through and met by Expedition Leader @Jaime to help us navigate the bus ride, the pier and the dinghy to board our home for the next 5 days - The Treasure of the Galapagos.

Home ...

Hospitality instantly welcoming led by Cruise Director, @Kelly.  We were on the guest list of 16 - Auatralian, British and American and it will take a while to get the names sorted. We are supported by 12 crew and all the introductions and briefings were conducted as the forerunner to lunch (surf and turf ... wow, best meal of the trip) and then it was straight into the business of expeditions.

The Adventure

A three hour excursion had us ashore and in the mountains of Santa Cruz for our first 3 hour excursion,  a first walk with the Galapagos Tortoise and a scramble through the lava tube caves at El Chapo. Hard to believe we had been stumbling into our clothing in the early hours of the morning and were now strolling in gumboots getting our first history and biology lessons from @Jaime. And biology it was - because our first sighting was of two giant tortoises mating on the side of the dirt road on the bus journey!

Getting our dinghy on

Lots of similarities here in relation to keeping the area pristine and protecting the environment. And although everything was calm and relaxed, there are understandably plenty of rules and guidelines for maintaining the pristine state of this environment.

 Appreciating the pace - all supportive and designed to make sure you cope with the heat and get up close and personal.  It was a stroll with conversation - prefaced by a change into the big gumboots - big mounds of tortoise scattered everywhere in the fields chomping their way through the grass. I am not suggesting they were speedsters but they were surprisingly agile over the uneven ground and not quite sure how they navigated the steep sides of the ponds to appear as stepping stones in the water.

All then in reverse to get us back on board and into the routine of clambering into the dinghy, removing shoes once back on board and taking the welcome face and hand cleanse.

As it turned out, all 16 guests had been assembled in Quito in preparation for the journey south. We all had similar stories to share of our single day in Quito and conversation flowed easily with the background of summer heat,, turquoise calm water and clear blue skies.

The boat is extremely comfortable - loads of room, lovingly cared for spread over three decks. Massive cabin with ensuite and a small balcony and so much cavernous cupboard space we have unpacked everything.

Dinner - another stunner with plenty of seafood and fresh vegetables followed by a detailed briefing for tomorrow's activities. 

Settling in onboard

Hope they do a little rinse and repeat tomorrow because not sure we took in all the details. Wrestled with the water controls in the shower and fell into bed absolutely knackered rocked to sleep by the gentle movement of The Treasure as she quietly made her way to the next anchorage point. 

Don't have to look far, the animals make themselves at home on The Treasure

Can you believe this?

Amazing & Weird Facts from Co-Pilot

Survive Almost Anything: They can go for up to a year without food or water, storing water in their bodies to survive long periods of drought.

Slow Metabolism, High Age: These reptiles can live well over 100 years, with some living to 177 years.

They Cannot Swim: Despite their ability to float, they do not swim and spend their time walking on the sea floor or basking in muddy ponds.

"Tortoise Highways": They are known to travel in groups along well-worn paths called "tortoise highways".

They Feed on Toxic Fruit: They are herbivores and can eat the poisonous manzanillo tree fruit that would make humans sick.

No Teeth: They do not have teeth but have sharp, beak-like edges on their mouths to eat vegetables.

Name Origin: The islands were actually named after the tortoises; galapago is an old Spanish word for saddle, referring to the shell shape.

Survival Barometer

Steps 9 956

Weather 34 degrees, humid and sticky

Health - I am back to normal and feeling great. @Mac has a little drug reaction thing happening and the left hand side of his face was swollen and distorted. Glad they weren't using facial recognition - he would not have matched his passport!

PS Happy Anniversary to us - not a bad way to celebrate with a welcome aboard the "Treasures of Galapagos." 

"Grandad, we're twins!"